Galway, Ireland & London, England
Dec 2023/January 2024
After a full Irish breakfast (pretty similar to a full English breakfast but perhaps with Irish Soda bread) I met up with my friend Suzanne to drive from Dublin in the east to Galway in the west – a nice 3 hour drive through the countryside.

Galway grew up around a fortification built in 1124, today, despite being the 4th largest city in the Republic of Ireland, Galway only has a population of around 86,000. It is a very popular tourist destination due to its strong artistic and musical traditions, its lively atmosphere, great food and nearby dramatic landscapes.
By the time we had arrived it was already midafternoon, so after checking to our hotel we headed out for something to eat. There was a small Christmas fair in the central square and lots of beautiful Christmas lights around small old town and the light rain was not going to put us off exploring – in fact it was a great excuse to check out Tig Choili. Touted as the home of traditional music it did not disappoint as they had a live trad music session going on as we arrived. The small bar was packed with people and atmosphere.

As it started to get dark, the lights came on and the puddles were filled with reflections (we all know I love a good reflection) and, as it was New Years Eve (did I mention it was New Years Eve?) there was a programme of buskers set up around the old town. We spent time wandering around the different stages enjoying the music – ranging from drumming, soul to trad. (If you are on Instagram, check out the reel I did about the evening). It was a great event.


We headed back to the hotel to get changed and before going back out to Monroes, a popular live music venue who were hosting Kíla, a popular Irish folk music group. We had planned to stay here till midnight, but a friend of Suzanne’s who lived on the nearby Aran Islands was in town as asked us to join him at a small French restaurant across the road. We did and it was fabulous – they were obviously hosting a 1920’s themed New Years eve dinner and we sat on the side, enjoying champagne and singing around the piano. It was a great way to top of the evening and ring in the new year.

The hotel breakfast the next morning included another full Irish (it would be rude not to) before we decided to walk the 3km out to the Salthill Promenade. Unfortunately, the rain really got us this time, setting in about 10 minutes into our walk … but we preserved and fully made it out to meet up with some other friends of Suzanne’s who were out here for a traditional New Years Day swim!! Ah, these Irish are a funny lot lol.


After a chat over coffee, it was time to hit the road again, this time to Clifden, the so-called capital of County Connemara. The morning rain continued as we drove the 1 hour 20 minute drive through some surface flooding and sheep on the road – made me feel right at home lol.
Despite its size (population around 2,500) it is the economic capital of the area and is the base for some of the best sites around this part of the west coast. After a lovely dinner and a couple of drinks, we settled for an early night.
January 2nd, we set out to explore the area. It was still overcast with a little rain, but we were not going to let us stop us. First stop was the beautiful Kylemore Castle. We were lucky enough to have a break in the weather and managed to get a moody version of that icon reflection view but decided to start in the Victorian walled garden as we were unsure how long the weather would hold!
But first some history … Mitchell Henry, a wealthy doctor from London, built Kylemore Castle in 1868 for his wife Margaret after they feel in love with the area on their honeymoon in the 1840s. The castle took 100 men 4 years to build and had 33 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms (which is a crazy ratio in today’s world), 4 sitting rooms, a ball room and of course rooms for all the servants.
When his beloved Margaret died in 1874 (of a fever she contracted in Egypt), Mitchell spent less and less time at Kylemore. He did however build a Gothic chapel and mausoleum which holds the bodies of Margaret and Mitchell.
In 1903 the estate was sold to the Duke and Duchess of Manchester who lived there for a few years before having to sell it to repay gambling debts!!
In 1920 the site was purchased by Irish Benedictine nuns after they had to flee their original location of Ypres in Belgium because of the war. They ran a farm on the site and opened a school in 1923 which attracted the children of nobility from around the world as boarders (including an Indian princess and even Madonna tried to get her daughter in) and local girls as day students (for whom it is free). Sadly, the school was forced to close in 2010 due to lack of students.


Back to our visit … we caught the shuttle bus the short distance to the gardens and enjoyed a strolled around it, learning abouts its history from its informative panels. The 6 acre garden was created along with the castle in the late 1800s. In its heyday, it had 21 glasshouses and 40 gardeners!!
After many years of neglect, the nuns brought the gardens back to life and feed the nuns and the students from the school from the produce grown here, but it was not until 1995 when a group of historical restoration consultants, garden archaeologists and architects were brought together to bring the gardens back to their former glory.
After a short walk around the gardens, we caught the shuttle bus back to the reception area and took a short walk to the castle to join a history tour. Our guide was so enthusiastic about the castle and it’s story, and it was fascinating learning more about the castle in a more personal way.
We learnt about the fantasy fairytale exterior design and all the modern trappings it was built with inside including electric lights, gas heating and indoor plumbing. In fact, it was one of the first private homes to have self-sufficient electricity from an onsite hydroelectric turbine.
Kylemore was great, but we had more to see before it got dark, so we moved on for a brief lunch stop in Letterfrack, a village founded by the Quakers in the mid-19th century, before continuing down narrow country lanes, through beautiful moody landscapes to Claddaghduff, the ‘jumping’ off point to reach the tidal island of Omey Island. The island is said to have been one of the last lingering strongholds for pagans, before the monastery, Feichin’s Church was built in the 7th century. Subsequently it has supported some successful farms over the years. Currently, the population is listed as 5!


At low tide, you can walk across the sand to the island, and in fact you can even drive! Despite being there at low tide, there was still a few fairly wet spots and although my shoes were waterproof, I didn’t want them covered in saltwater so decided to wander around the foreshore while Suzanne went over to the island to explore. My choice did not disappoint as I enjoyed just strolling around the beautiful wild beach and was awarded by a stunning rainbow. 🌈
Back in Clifden, now the New Year rush is over, many of the bars, restaurants and even hotels were closing up until February or March. Thankfully we had one more night to have a couple of drinks in a couple of the local pubs, ending up in the bar by the hotel where there was live music and then to the hotel lobby where there was a piano player – actually the same guy who was playing the piano in the bar we ended up in on New Year’s Eve – small world lol.


On our final morning away, Suzanne was not feeling well, so I got up and despite the rain, I headed out for a morning walk through the town and down to the waterfront. Clifden is not a big town, but it was nice to stretch the legs before we headed back to Dublin, via a quick stop at Ireland’s oldest pub – Sean’s Bar in Athlone. Established in 900AD! I admit I do love the Irish pub atmosphere – dark, cosy, warm fire – nothing like it in the winter.
As well as Suzanne starting not to feel well, Ania, who I was supposed to stay with back in Dublin, tested positive for covid (Covid – disrupting plans since 2020)! Despite feeling sick, Suzanne kindly offered a bed in her place for the night and it definitely an early night all around!
Next morning I headed just around the corner to the airport bus stop. It only ran from this area every 2 hours, so I went super early. It was a lovely morning for my last trip through the city and I was lucky enough to get an earlier flight to London for my last couple of nights.
I caught the tube into the city to my hotel in Piccadilly – it was called a cocoon room, and it was true to its name in size, but it was clean, comfortable and in a great location, so I was happy. By this point I felt like I was fighting to keep those Irish germs at bay and as the day went on, it became clear I was losing the battle. After a quick nap I managed to head out in the torrential rain to see the Christmas lights, enjoy a bite at Pizza Express (an old favourite) and see Six – The Musical. The musical was great fun and despite not feeling the best, the evening reminded me just how much I love London.


The next morning, I managed to make it out for a walk around some of the central tourist attractions – around Trafalgar Square and down Pall Mall, just in time to catch the procession for the changing of the guard. It was incredible to see how many people come to watch the regular event. Just a great bit of English pomp and ceremony.


In the afternoon I made my way out to the west of the city to visit an old friend and it was wonderful to catch up her, but I did have to have an early night and sadly felt even worse the next morning. All final day activities were cancelled due to this unwanted Irish souvenir, and I had to book a day room in hotel at airport were I basically slept all day, until it was time to head to the airport for my flights home.
Despite the Irish germs, it was a great trip exploring new places and catching up with friends.


































