Osaka

April 2023

We meet the rest of the group back at the hotel at 2pm before we took our final Japanese train journey, 35 minutes to Osaka.  Again, our hotel was near the train station but unfortunately this time it was not walking distance to any of the sights. 

After an hour or so to rest, we took the metro to the infamous Dontonbori area. The area is an explosion of neon lights, clubs, bars, shops and street food, most famously – octopus balls.  One of the most famous sites of the area is the Glico Running Man, advertising a popular Japanese snack company.  Apparently the area was 10 times busier pre-covid than it is these days – this was definitely busy enough for me!

Unfortunately, the final group dinner arranged by our guide was disappointing.  It was in a small restaurant where we couldn’t all sit together (we could only sit in groups of 3 or 4) and it was a Chinese restaurant, a Japanese version of Chinese food 🤔, but still Chinese food.  The food was good but we all would have preferred Japanese food on our last night in Japan!

I had said goodbye to most of the group on our final night, but a few of us were staying a day or two longer and so I meet up with my Irish buddies to enjoy my last day of exploration in Osaka. For today’s sightseeing, we bought a day pass (820 yen) for the metro rather than using the Sucia card as it was going to be better value for the all the trips we have planned (turned out it was definitely better value).

We took an ill advised, very, very, very long walk to our next sights.  Despite it being much longer than we had thought, it was nice to see the contrast of old and new buildings away from the touristy part of the city.  When we finally reached Shitenno-ji Temple, the Temple of the Four Heavenly Kings, one of the oldest temples in Japan.  It was founded in 593 by Prince Shotoku, who was partly responsible for the introduction of Buddhism in Japan. 

Of course, as with most things we have seen, the temple buildings have been burned down and rebuilt several times over the centuries, but always trying to keep the original designs.  It was a huge, beautiful complex and we took some time to explore before moving on in search of our next stop – Shinsekai tower. 

The final stop on the list for the day was the Umeda Sky Building, the 173 metre high, twin tower high rise building with the towers connected by a “Floating Garden Observatory”.   The building was just near Umeda station and we had thought we would just walk outside and see these towering buildings but unfortunately we came out of the wrong exit of the huge station and ended up walking much much further than we needed to have to find the right direction! (Seems to be the theme of the day lol)

By this point my feet were throbbing and thankfully I had a couple of hours down time before it was time to set off again – this time for the botanical gardens for the TeamLab experiment.  TeamLab is an international art collective, a group of artists, formed in 2001 and they create digital artwork (in this instance) based on the concept of integrating advanced technologies and nature.  I had wanted to go to their exhibition in Tokyo but just did not have the time so was really happy when Carla (who was also staying a few more days) said that they had a exhibit in the Osaka Botantical gardens.

This ‘experiment’ is described as “digitised nature, exploring how nature can become art”.  It was a beautiful evening and a great way to spend my last night with my new friends.

I  finally had a good night’s sleep – perhaps because I had my own room 🤔 and I had time to have a leisurely breakfast (and admire the great view from the breakfast room), finish packing and use up the rest of the money on my Sucia card to pay for some dumplings (from a place that always had a long queue – even at 9.30 in the morning).   I was also grateful that I had booked an airport transfer so I didn’t have to bother with my bag on the train. 

All too soon on my way home with a short flight in to Tokyo and then back to New Zealand – the long journey gave me time to reflect on my trip.  To sum up … Japan enchanted me.  ❤️

Landing in Tokyo I was overwhelmed and thought that feeling would continue, but as I travelled around and grew more comfortable with everything, I grew to love everything and every place we visited.  I mean, what’s not to love?  A place where everyone is so polite and everywhere is so clean and organised – how could I possibly doubt my love for it. 

Below are a few things that really stood to me about Japan – some cool, some cute, some quirky and some just downright odd:

Japan manages to find that very fine line between obsessive organisation and utter chaos and is full of fun contradictions. In fact, to the untrained eye, everything looks chaotic, but in fact, the chaos is masterfully organised 😄

Everywhere is really clean, despite the fact that there are no rubbish bins, anywhere!!!  If you have rubbish, be prepared to carry it home with you.  No one litters – anywhere, ever!  (Or so it would seem)

There is lots of amazing street food, but don’t think about walking along the street eating or drinking – it is just not done!  Either eat your food right by the stall (and you can return any rubbish to them), or take it home!

Japanese people are also very good at following the rules (social or otherwise).  In turn, they are very trusting that others will do the right thing.  A good example of this was if you did not have enough money on your Sucia (your public transport card), the gates would open anyway for you and trust that you would go and pay the balance once at your destination.  (Unlike in other countries where they would not let you in/out without you paying the full fare!)

Speaking of public transport, it is amazing – whether it be bus, metro or long distance train.  It is efficient, effective, sometimes quirky and or course always clean!  If you have a Sucia, or other form of travel pass, you can easily get around the cities. The Japan Rail pass is the way to go to get around the country (and includes the bullet trains) but interestingly it seems the process to buy a pass for the fastest train, is one of the slowest, most manual things you ever need to do in Japan!  It needs to be done in person and can take hours, it even includes the sales person handwriting details … on paper … in pencil!!   Perhaps it is all part of the lovely combination of keeping old traditional ways whilst embracing the future that Japan is so good at.

The have amazing attention to detail.  I loved all the different manhole covers, each city had its own version, showing designs unique to the city, some were even in colour.

Most hotels provide you with a set of PJs or something similar for use at the hotel. Not sure if they are supposed to be used to just go to the Onsen, or relax, or sleep.  They are one size fits all and surprisingly, that ‘one’ size did just fit me 😆.  

Japanese people love getting naked and sharing hot tubs, or Onsens as they are called!  The are single sex but everyone just gets in!!  No swimsuits, oh and no tattoos (in most)!  The ban on tattoos is because of the connotation in Japan of tattoos being associated with the gangs. Apparently, no swimsuits because they can bring dirt and soap into the hot spring waters from outside and are, therefore, considered unhygienic.  Despite that, they are very popular and many hotels have them, as well as there being public ones throughout the cities and towns. 

Convenience stores are very popular and are on almost every corner.  There are a number of chains (7 Eleven, Lawsons, Family Mart) and each are popular for certain convenient foods be it fried chicken, noodles, sandwiches or cakes.  They are cheap and well stocked with a huge variety of food and drinks and I probably used them way more than I should – but hey, when in Japan, do as the Japanese do right? 😉

The food is amazing.  I don’t eat seafood or fish but still was astounded by the quantity and quality of almost all the food I ate.  The Japanese concept of the Bento box, or a “little bit of everything” is a great way to eat.  Much of the food was quite simple – but as I described my amazing Hide Beef sushi – it was perfection in its simplicity. 

KitKats are King – I have been home over a month and still am enjoying some of the many flavours of KitKat I picked up.  I thought I had gone over board but it seems you can never have too many flavours of KitKat 🤪

In summary, Japan rocks